'Nuff said. :)
Tuesday 30 August 2011
More Rain!!
It's now been raining for four days straight. This morning, when I woke up, I threw open the curtain and was thrilled to see sunshine. Waking up here a quite nice. In the alley, behind the hotel, there is a bakery of some sort so around 4AM every morning, my hotel room starts to smell like baking bread. So between the sunshine, delicious smell (maybe that's why I'm so hungry at breakfast each morning) and happy, singing birds, I was feeling quite wonderful.
The hotel serves a really great breakfast. Loads of fresh fruit, like pineapple, musk melon (cantaloupe, but what's sounds better? Actually, neither), and papaya. As hard as I try, I just can't get into the flavour of papaya. I've since given up. Being a long term guest, everyone knows what I like and if I deviate, I get the, "No scrambled egg this morning, ma'am?" Everyone knows the woman in room 604. It helps that I'll chat with anyone who will chat back. Language is definitely a barrier, but most people speak a smattering and hand signals can get you further than you would think.
My cabbie of choice, Soorish, loves to speak English and so we practice when I see him. He picked me up once and on our rather long drive through the rain, he told me in very broken English (but WAY better than my Hindi) about a nephew in Toronto and how much he'd like to come to Canada and see snow. He gave me his phone number, in case I needed a cab, and so I've called him up a couple of time. The "old" cabs here are ancient Fiats--kind of like what you see driving around in Havana. No air conditioning, but lots of charm--at least on a cool rainy day. I'm sure that there would be a lot less charm being stuck in full sun in 35C weather. People are not as obsessed about wearing deodorant as we are. Initially, I noticed it, and now, not so much. What I'm really curious to see is that when I get home to my own house, what will the clothes I've been wearing smell like to me?
I've very much digressed as I've been working on this post off and on when I have a moment or two. Anyway, by the time I left for work, it was cloudy, and now, it's been raining all day. It's late in the afternoon and every time I walk by a window, it's raining.
A total high point in my day, though, was when I got a thank you gift from one of the users. She's a lovely person and it was such an unexpected gesture. It just brightened my day. It's nice to be appreciated.
It's now late at night and it has finally stopped raining. Hooray!
It's shortly after midnight and I'm dying to know what runs behind the hotel. It sound like a giant ventilation system that get turned on around 7 in the morning and off shortly after midnight. It's white noise, I don't really notice it until there is this huge banging noise and the things get going-or the silence when it's off. A mystery to solve before I leave.
The hotel serves a really great breakfast. Loads of fresh fruit, like pineapple, musk melon (cantaloupe, but what's sounds better? Actually, neither), and papaya. As hard as I try, I just can't get into the flavour of papaya. I've since given up. Being a long term guest, everyone knows what I like and if I deviate, I get the, "No scrambled egg this morning, ma'am?" Everyone knows the woman in room 604. It helps that I'll chat with anyone who will chat back. Language is definitely a barrier, but most people speak a smattering and hand signals can get you further than you would think.
My cabbie of choice, Soorish, loves to speak English and so we practice when I see him. He picked me up once and on our rather long drive through the rain, he told me in very broken English (but WAY better than my Hindi) about a nephew in Toronto and how much he'd like to come to Canada and see snow. He gave me his phone number, in case I needed a cab, and so I've called him up a couple of time. The "old" cabs here are ancient Fiats--kind of like what you see driving around in Havana. No air conditioning, but lots of charm--at least on a cool rainy day. I'm sure that there would be a lot less charm being stuck in full sun in 35C weather. People are not as obsessed about wearing deodorant as we are. Initially, I noticed it, and now, not so much. What I'm really curious to see is that when I get home to my own house, what will the clothes I've been wearing smell like to me?
I've very much digressed as I've been working on this post off and on when I have a moment or two. Anyway, by the time I left for work, it was cloudy, and now, it's been raining all day. It's late in the afternoon and every time I walk by a window, it's raining.
A total high point in my day, though, was when I got a thank you gift from one of the users. She's a lovely person and it was such an unexpected gesture. It just brightened my day. It's nice to be appreciated.
It's now late at night and it has finally stopped raining. Hooray!
It's shortly after midnight and I'm dying to know what runs behind the hotel. It sound like a giant ventilation system that get turned on around 7 in the morning and off shortly after midnight. It's white noise, I don't really notice it until there is this huge banging noise and the things get going-or the silence when it's off. A mystery to solve before I leave.
Sunday 28 August 2011
Grocery Shopping
I'm on the edge of homesick. I can feel it it. It took real effort (and hunger) to leave my room this afternoon. Or maybe it's the rain that has me down a bit, I'm not sure.
Anyway, I did gird my loins and thought I'd nip out to the grocery store. I wanted to pick up a couple of things so off I went. It's so wet out. Huge puddles everywhere and my poor rickshaw driver had to restart the rickshaw at each light. Finally, though, with all the crazy driving, I saw a fender bender. My driver was going through a red light and miscalculated the distance between us and another "rick" that was running the light. The front end made it through, but the back, where it's that much wider, did not. We got caught on the headlight and sort of, well, ripped it off. My driver just looked, shrugged, zipped around a couple of other rickshaws and we sped off into the night with the other driver yelling at us. Great fun.
The grocery store was heaven. A great selection of western and Indian food. I wanted to pick up ginger and garlic paste, some tea that was recommended to me, these amazing Lay's chips-Spanish Tomato Tango (Tomato, chili, cinnamon, cloves. Very good), and what really is wonderful, honey nut corn flakes! We haven't be able to get them in North America for years and it's my all time favourite cereal. I know what I'll be having for breakfast tomorrow. If it lives up to expectations, I will bring a box or two home. I could have spent a fortune, but it's having to pack it and get it home, somehow. My suitcases were heavy enough on the way here.
A little digression here, but a great commercial just came on. Here, Cadbury has a premium line of chocolate called Bournville. I just love it. A very British cocoa bean inspector is in a hut in Ghana, looking at each bean through a magnifying glass. The one bean that isn't good enough is put to the side and starts crying little cocoa tears. Everyone feels sorry for it, until one of the growers ruthlessly sweeps it off the table. An older man just looks at him and hisses, "Killer" in Ghanese. Pretty funny stuff.
Yep, definitely homesick. I'm just rambling and it's only nine and I just feel like turning off the light and going to sleep. That's not a good sign. I have to do some work first, though. I'm way behind on a few things. Even this post is me, procrastinating.
And the new Miss India is lovely. That's on TV tonight and I had it on in the background. My TV standards are always lower when I travel and it's not a good TV night.
Anyway, I did gird my loins and thought I'd nip out to the grocery store. I wanted to pick up a couple of things so off I went. It's so wet out. Huge puddles everywhere and my poor rickshaw driver had to restart the rickshaw at each light. Finally, though, with all the crazy driving, I saw a fender bender. My driver was going through a red light and miscalculated the distance between us and another "rick" that was running the light. The front end made it through, but the back, where it's that much wider, did not. We got caught on the headlight and sort of, well, ripped it off. My driver just looked, shrugged, zipped around a couple of other rickshaws and we sped off into the night with the other driver yelling at us. Great fun.
The grocery store was heaven. A great selection of western and Indian food. I wanted to pick up ginger and garlic paste, some tea that was recommended to me, these amazing Lay's chips-Spanish Tomato Tango (Tomato, chili, cinnamon, cloves. Very good), and what really is wonderful, honey nut corn flakes! We haven't be able to get them in North America for years and it's my all time favourite cereal. I know what I'll be having for breakfast tomorrow. If it lives up to expectations, I will bring a box or two home. I could have spent a fortune, but it's having to pack it and get it home, somehow. My suitcases were heavy enough on the way here.
A little digression here, but a great commercial just came on. Here, Cadbury has a premium line of chocolate called Bournville. I just love it. A very British cocoa bean inspector is in a hut in Ghana, looking at each bean through a magnifying glass. The one bean that isn't good enough is put to the side and starts crying little cocoa tears. Everyone feels sorry for it, until one of the growers ruthlessly sweeps it off the table. An older man just looks at him and hisses, "Killer" in Ghanese. Pretty funny stuff.
Yep, definitely homesick. I'm just rambling and it's only nine and I just feel like turning off the light and going to sleep. That's not a good sign. I have to do some work first, though. I'm way behind on a few things. Even this post is me, procrastinating.
And the new Miss India is lovely. That's on TV tonight and I had it on in the background. My TV standards are always lower when I travel and it's not a good TV night.
My second last weekend
Time flies. The work-days are very busy and this month has flown by, as a result.
This is my first truly rainy weekend. I woke up to rain and it has been raining buckets all weekend. When a true down pour happens, it is literally sheets of rain. Yesterday, despite my umbrella, I spend the entire day either damp to wet. It was windy, so nothing could really protect me from the rain. It's so warm, though, it's like a bath being dumped on me. I really didn't mind. The biggest benefit was that along with any tourists, the hawkers selling postcards and maps stayed in, so I was blissfully alone in my wandering. Of course, I did get the requisite offer of hash. That guy works in all sorts for weather.
I spend the afternoon back in Colaba. I absolutely love that neighbourhood. I think it's because it looks like the romantic Bombay that we know. The buildings are very British, but with an exotic, Indian twist. If I had my choice this is where I would live in this city. I've found my perfect building. It faces the sea. The facade is beautiful. It's a bit run-down, but so gorgeous. Actually now that I look again, there are two buildings that are pretty spectacular that were a couple of doors apart. It would be a tough decision.
To get out the rain, I stopped and had tea twice. Once at a highly recommended French cafe called, Le Pain Quotodien. Earl Grey and pain au chocolate never tasted so good. I very much liked that the tea was served in bowls, rather than cups. I pulled out my book and stayed there until I had dried up a little. It is definitely a go-to for ex-pats. There was a constant stream of English tourists all complaining about the rain. I had to giggle at the irony of that.
When there was a little break in the rain, off I went again. More exploring. Although I completely enjoyed myself last weekend, what I didn't have a chance to do was really explore the side streets. When I get home and have a chance to sift through and post my photos, there will be a lot of building and rusty fences. I'm apologizing in advance as it might be a little dull.
My one shopping, should I? moment was over this necklace. Unfortunately, at the point I took this, my camera had gotten a bit damp and the picture does not do justice to the colours. The necklace is made up of faceted rubies, sapphires, emeralds, peridots and other gemstones. It is gorgeous, even though, to be honest, I don't know if I would ever really wear it. However, I liked it enough that I walked by the shop twice and it's still on the brain today. Yeah, at little out of my league, price-wise, as well. It will have to adorn the neck of a much wealthier woman than I...
At that point, I was wet again, so I had one last tea at the Taj Hotel. I had dinner plans with the family of one of my colleagues (that was so much fun), so I couldn't eat much, but wrapped myself up in that soothing atmosphere one more time. Great service, someone tinkling on the ivories (that is little joke inserted for the benefit of my niece. It was her little mix-up when she was younger), and English Breakfast Tea, this time. Along with a tea tray of crustless sandwiches and some little baking treats, of course. I don't think I've ever mentioned how good the butter is here. A little saltier than ours but really rich tasting. Extra good on a scone with strawberry jam.
And while this was all going on, it rained and rained and rained. I took shelter at one point on the porch of this stunning building and made a recording of the rain. It's completely different than one of our own downpours that are over in 10 minutes. Picture this, lasting for half an hour, slowing down for ten minutes and then starting up again. It's pretty incredible.
This is my first truly rainy weekend. I woke up to rain and it has been raining buckets all weekend. When a true down pour happens, it is literally sheets of rain. Yesterday, despite my umbrella, I spend the entire day either damp to wet. It was windy, so nothing could really protect me from the rain. It's so warm, though, it's like a bath being dumped on me. I really didn't mind. The biggest benefit was that along with any tourists, the hawkers selling postcards and maps stayed in, so I was blissfully alone in my wandering. Of course, I did get the requisite offer of hash. That guy works in all sorts for weather.
I spend the afternoon back in Colaba. I absolutely love that neighbourhood. I think it's because it looks like the romantic Bombay that we know. The buildings are very British, but with an exotic, Indian twist. If I had my choice this is where I would live in this city. I've found my perfect building. It faces the sea. The facade is beautiful. It's a bit run-down, but so gorgeous. Actually now that I look again, there are two buildings that are pretty spectacular that were a couple of doors apart. It would be a tough decision.
To get out the rain, I stopped and had tea twice. Once at a highly recommended French cafe called, Le Pain Quotodien. Earl Grey and pain au chocolate never tasted so good. I very much liked that the tea was served in bowls, rather than cups. I pulled out my book and stayed there until I had dried up a little. It is definitely a go-to for ex-pats. There was a constant stream of English tourists all complaining about the rain. I had to giggle at the irony of that.When there was a little break in the rain, off I went again. More exploring. Although I completely enjoyed myself last weekend, what I didn't have a chance to do was really explore the side streets. When I get home and have a chance to sift through and post my photos, there will be a lot of building and rusty fences. I'm apologizing in advance as it might be a little dull.
And while this was all going on, it rained and rained and rained. I took shelter at one point on the porch of this stunning building and made a recording of the rain. It's completely different than one of our own downpours that are over in 10 minutes. Picture this, lasting for half an hour, slowing down for ten minutes and then starting up again. It's pretty incredible.
Friday 26 August 2011
Continuing to be shallow...
Happy day! There are two giant malls near the office so I thought I'd have a poke around the biggest of the two. One of the anchor stores is called Shoppers Stop. It's like an Indian version of the Bay. It's pretty great. I love browsing through the more traditional Indian clothing. It's so pretty--very colourful and little bit sparkly.
As I walked by a Clinique counter, I double checked the price of my skin cream as I have noticed that some cosmetics are cheaper. Not everything though. I almost fell on my ass when she told me what I pay 28 bucks for in the states was the equivalent to 45 dollars here. Yikes!
The store also has a wonderful jewelry section. What has made me so happy is a pair of earrings I found there. One of my all my all time favourite pairs of earring are (were) just small, dangley ones with three graduated pearls. Really, nothing that special at all, but they are somehow perfect. I'd picked them up on a trip somewhere and a few years ago I lost one. I kept the one, thinking that I'll take a course at the bead shop in my neighbourhood and make myself a new pair (yeah, right) and have mourned the missing one each time I see its mate in my jewelry box. I always slow down at displays of pearls, just in case.
Then, today, the heavens opened and the angels sang. There they were. Perfect, in fact better, as the old ones were silver and these are 14K gold. Right now, me and the good hair have them on. I'm so very pleased. :)
And now, bedtime. Tomorrow will be one last lunch at the Taj hotel and a wander around my favourite neighbourhood. On the way home again in a week's time.
As I walked by a Clinique counter, I double checked the price of my skin cream as I have noticed that some cosmetics are cheaper. Not everything though. I almost fell on my ass when she told me what I pay 28 bucks for in the states was the equivalent to 45 dollars here. Yikes!
Then, today, the heavens opened and the angels sang. There they were. Perfect, in fact better, as the old ones were silver and these are 14K gold. Right now, me and the good hair have them on. I'm so very pleased. :)
And now, bedtime. Tomorrow will be one last lunch at the Taj hotel and a wander around my favourite neighbourhood. On the way home again in a week's time.
Hair and Humidty
A very shallow post today, but this has made me very happy.
For the last three weeks, my hair has been a frizzy mess. It's a frizzy mess whenever there is humidity, no matter where I am. Here, it's been frizzy to the nth degree. Basically, I step outside and my perfectly groomed head looks like rat's nest. Until today.
I think my hair has gotten used to all the moisture in the air, finally. Today, it's smooth, just a little bit wavy and otherwise perfect. There was even a massive downpour on the way to work where I got damp in my rickshaw and that didn't make that much of a difference. It's so nice not to have to put my hair in a pony-tail. The women here have absolutely gorgeous hair and I've been so jealous.
It really is the small things... :)
Thursday 25 August 2011
Rickshaw Drivers--A Postscript
Tonight's ride home was very disappointing. Not only was my driver honest, he was also a really good driver. He was even very quick about giving me my change and thanked me when I gave it to him as a tip. What a complete non-event. A few more rides like that and I'll have to change my tune.
It's a lovely evening here tonight. Warm, but it definitely cools off once it gets dark. I've got a meeting with the TO office in about 40 minutes and then think I'll go for a wander. Maybe my dog will be around. I'll have to bring a cookie or two with me. This is the first time all week I'll have eaten dinner prior to this call. I don't know what I'll do with all my free time tonight.
I can't believe this is going to be my last weekend here. Where did the time go?
It's a lovely evening here tonight. Warm, but it definitely cools off once it gets dark. I've got a meeting with the TO office in about 40 minutes and then think I'll go for a wander. Maybe my dog will be around. I'll have to bring a cookie or two with me. This is the first time all week I'll have eaten dinner prior to this call. I don't know what I'll do with all my free time tonight.
I can't believe this is going to be my last weekend here. Where did the time go?
Wednesday 24 August 2011
Rickshaw Drivers = Frustration
I get a real kick out of taking the rickshaws. They are a hoot for those of us who are so used to either driving or taking cabs When you're in a rickshaw, you're part of the route--from the traffic congestion, the near miss as the driver zips around a car with only centimeters to spare, to whatever smells are present. I'll go slightly off topic in an effort to be fair, as I'm sure everything is thinking bad smells, but on my ride this morning, on a certain stretch, something smelled so incredibly good. I don't know if a plant was blooming, but there was a beautiful, green, slightly spicy odour that was unlike anything I'd ever had the pleasure to experience. It was truly intoxicating.
Back to my rant, though. As much as I love the rickshaw ride, the drivers are a completely another story. The rickshaws themselves and their meters are quite old, so there is a tariff rate in place so that when the meter says X, people can translate that into today's value. For example, the meter will show five rupees on my trip from my hotel to the office. According to the tariff card (I keep a copy in my purse), I should be charged 64 rupees (about $1.50). The reality is something different and for some reason it's the drivers in the evening who are the problem. My morning ride is an honest one.
My first night, my driver tried to charge me 200. I argued him down to 100. Last night, right off the bat, the driver said 300 and after much back and forth between two people who don't speak the same language and me threatening to get out and find another cab I also got him down to 100. Tonight, the driver took me who knows where, and my 15 minute ride took at least 30 minutes. When I said something to him, he acted like he didn't understand where I needed to go. On the upside, it was a really interesting drive. One of the streets we puttered along was a shopping street in a predominately Muslim neighbourhood. It's Ramadam, so it was hopping as Muslims are fasting during daylight hours and only break their fast after dusk. And since it only cost 30 rupees more than it should have, I'll enjoy it for the experience and refuse to get annoyed.
Last night's driver, Mr. 300 rupees, was just a jerk though. To get to my hotel is very easy, you go by the Infinity Mall and take the next right. But he just didn't want to and I got off at the mall to walk. There was only one small problem. It had been raining all afternoon so I had to make my way around an obstacle course of puddles. This one was the worst. The sidewalk ended and then puddle--a really big, really deep puddle that was wide enough that passing traffic made big splashes. This meant stepping down a foot into mud and skirting around it. By the time I made it to the hotel, my khakis and shoes were in pretty rough shape, but nothing that a good launder and dry mud brushing didn't solve. It was a lovely night for a walk, too, once I turned off the main road onto my street (I have begun to think of it as my neighbourhood). My favourite stray dog wandered over to say hello. I'd bought some cookies that I didn't like so I've been feeding them to her (the truth is, I'm on to my second packet) and carry a couple when I know I will be walking by where she hangs out. Now she comes, check out if I have anything for her and then goes back to snoozing if I don't. I don't pet her because they can carry rabies, but I like that she recognizes me. Even the people who work in the shop and restaurants don't stare at me anymore, which is nice. That felt kind of strange in the beginning and I'm glad it's not an issue any more.Monday 22 August 2011
Food
One thing that I've learned is that I love spicy food. This is good as everything has a bite, including my rather yummy noodles. They're making my nose run. The other thing is that I could spend my entire month in Bombay and never eat Indian food, not that I would want to. It would just be wrong to be another country and not sample the good.
Until this week, when my colleague had to go away on a trip of his own, his wife and mother very graciously and generously made lunch for me. They made it extra special and lunch became my favouite meal of the day as I couldn't wait to see what Indian specialty they put together for us. Aside from being so tasty, they made a fresh lunch each morning. I can't thank them enough for their kindness.
I've learned I'm definitely a fan of paneer, which is a firm cheese. I think I've raved about it already. Okra, called lady fingers here, is also delicious, Who knew? I wish I had taken a few pictures. Home cooking is always delicious. Beware, I'm bringing back an Indian cook book and everyone will be subject to my attempts at cooking. I'll hand out Immodium as a party favour.
I just had an a-ha moment. One vegetable I really enjoyed is just called drumsticks. It's cooked and then the pulp sucked out of it. It sort of tastes like artichokes. In my google search to find out what it is, I found it is actually the pod from a Moringa tree. For anyone who shops at the Body Shop, you'll recognize that one of their scents is Moringa. So not only good smelling but good for you. I wonder if we can get it in Canada? I think a trip to little India is in order when I get home.
I have much more to talk about, food-wise, and will very soon. But I still have a bit of work to do and my bed is calling my name. The recipe below serves two.
Ingredients:
Wheat sooji (wheat rava) (semolina) 1 cup
Sugar 3/4 cup
Ghee 1 tbl spn
Cloves 2-3
Raisins(Dried grapes) & Cashews 1 tea spn (I had it with chopped almonds, no raisins)
Milk 1/2 cup
Water 1/2 cup
Cardamom powder 1/2 tea spoon
Saffron(optional) a pinch
Wheat sooji (wheat rava) (semolina) 1 cup
Sugar 3/4 cup
Ghee 1 tbl spn
Cloves 2-3
Raisins(Dried grapes) & Cashews 1 tea spn (I had it with chopped almonds, no raisins)
Milk 1/2 cup
Water 1/2 cup
Cardamom powder 1/2 tea spoon
Saffron(optional) a pinch
Method:
Heat ghee and add cloves, cashews and raisins, fry for sometime. Add wheat sooji and fry on low flame till the nice aroma comes out. Add sugar, milk and water(add the saffron dissolved in water). Close and cook till water is absorbed. Add cardamom powder and mix well. Serve hot (it was good at room temperature, too)
Heat ghee and add cloves, cashews and raisins, fry for sometime. Add wheat sooji and fry on low flame till the nice aroma comes out. Add sugar, milk and water(add the saffron dissolved in water). Close and cook till water is absorbed. Add cardamom powder and mix well. Serve hot (it was good at room temperature, too)
Preparation time : 10min
Sunday 21 August 2011
Colaba Market
Last weekend, the one must-see area that I didn't have a chance to visit is Colaba Market. It's a shopping street behind the Taj Mahal Hotel and is a great mix of small businesses, western retailers, and, of course, street vendors. Everything is directed to get my tourist dollar.
The afternoon that I had at the market was so much fun, hugely helped by two Australian women I met outside the Gateway to India. Last weekend, it was Independence Day weekend here and there were scads of people by the arches. It was much quieter yesterday so I took the oppotunity to see it up close. The vendors there see a white woman by herself and make a nuisance of themselves. One vendor selling post cards followed me for about a block and only fell back when I reached the security check point to get into the square in front of gateway. Once inside, more postcard sellers, people who will take your pictures, balloon sellers and map sellers. One man was showing me his maps and then wanted to know if I wanted to buy a "special" map and quickly opened it show a small bag of pot and then flicked open another map with a chunk of hashish. And yes, I did say no.
Without question, my favourite vendor that I've seen is the cotton candy seller. They walk around with small bags of the stuff on a long stick. I love the way it looks and the cotton candy is tasty. I couldn't resist buying a bag for 20 rupees (about 50 cents).
While I was there, I was approached by two women to take their picture. We got to talking and somehow we ended up shopping together. Both were really lovely. They had come to India to participate in a Salsa competition and were finishing up their trip by spending a few days in Mumbai, at the Taj Hotel.
We wandered through some of the back streets and then hit the main street. It is mayhem. Every vendor is trying to get you to look at their stuff and yet from seller to seller, they're all selling the same thing. The prices are fairly good. You do have to barter, but when you're being quoted the equivalent of 2 dollars for a necklace, it's hard to put much effort into the haggle. And unlike the pot, I did but the necklace. It's made of multi-coloured wooden beads. Very pretty.
For the better quality items, you need to go into the stores. But that is very much buyer beware. My new friends wanted to get an authentic Indian necklace so we wandered into one shop. We were brought into a back room and the man behind the counter pulled out necklace after necklace. We all ended up finding one we loved and then it is time to discuss price. It's considered rude to talk price before selecting. That makes it very hard, as I can invariably choose the most expensive thing. Rather than giving us a price, we were asked how much we were willing to pay. One woman said 5 Australian dollars (very, very low-ball) and I said 4000 rupees (about 125 bucks). After much talk about how we were like his sisters and that the price he's going to quote is the price he'd give family, out came the price--35 000 rupees!!!! This is about 780 dollars. Insanity. The necklaces were pretty, but the silver was tarnished and they weren't THAT amazing. We almost fell on our asses, we were so surpised. Absolutely not, we said and then had to listen to how these were investment pieces that we would love for the rest of our lives, blah, blah, blah. It wasn't until we just said, Look, we just don't have that kind of money, that we were allowed to leave.
Beside the shop, was a Mad about Donuts. It's a chain here and we decided to get over the sticker shock with coffee and a donut. The donut flavours were the same as we have, but some were more exotic. Most interesting were the savory one, like chili, but we weren't that adventurous. What we settled on was cinnamon, blueberry (that one was the best), a nutella filled, a white chocolate mocha, a mocha, and the equivalent of a boston cream. The donuts are eggless, for some reason, so the texture is a little heavier than my Tim Horton's donut. We were kind of "meh" on the donuts but the coffee was delicious. It took several bites of donut to get over our outrage on the necklaces. Even as I'm typing this, I'm still shaking my head. If we would have gotten a decent price, he would have made a sale. Jerk.
We proceed on and tried another store (called Amber) and this one was wonderful. Family run, the husband and wife were behind the counter and were chatty and very knowledgeable about what they sold. The steady stream of Indian shoppers who were also buying was a good indicator of the store's reputation. The ladies looked at necklaces, and I got sidetracked with bracelets and earrings. Again, not cheap, but a price that made sense. Like last week, once it was clear that we were there to shop, out came the tea. I do love that. We sipped our tea and browsed and browsed. Service in this country is exceptional. No request is too small and I've found I've had to get over the notion that as a shopper, my needs are a bit of a nuisance. You do not see 16 year olds yakking on their cell phones and ignoring you in the shops here.
We all found something. I bought a gorgeous marcasite bracelet. Marcasite is also known as "black diamonds" and the bracelet is so glittery, I can see why. We did mention the outrageous price from the other store and our new favourite shopkeeper just shook his head and said, "Crook".
We finished the day having high tea at the Taj. It really was serendipity that the three of us met. I had a truly fun afternoon at time where I am beginning to get a tiny twinge of homesickness.
More pictures of the market and the Sea Lounge at the Taj. I think I might enjoy one last tea there next weekend. I really enjoy the neighbourood it's in.
The afternoon that I had at the market was so much fun, hugely helped by two Australian women I met outside the Gateway to India. Last weekend, it was Independence Day weekend here and there were scads of people by the arches. It was much quieter yesterday so I took the oppotunity to see it up close. The vendors there see a white woman by herself and make a nuisance of themselves. One vendor selling post cards followed me for about a block and only fell back when I reached the security check point to get into the square in front of gateway. Once inside, more postcard sellers, people who will take your pictures, balloon sellers and map sellers. One man was showing me his maps and then wanted to know if I wanted to buy a "special" map and quickly opened it show a small bag of pot and then flicked open another map with a chunk of hashish. And yes, I did say no.
Without question, my favourite vendor that I've seen is the cotton candy seller. They walk around with small bags of the stuff on a long stick. I love the way it looks and the cotton candy is tasty. I couldn't resist buying a bag for 20 rupees (about 50 cents).While I was there, I was approached by two women to take their picture. We got to talking and somehow we ended up shopping together. Both were really lovely. They had come to India to participate in a Salsa competition and were finishing up their trip by spending a few days in Mumbai, at the Taj Hotel.
We wandered through some of the back streets and then hit the main street. It is mayhem. Every vendor is trying to get you to look at their stuff and yet from seller to seller, they're all selling the same thing. The prices are fairly good. You do have to barter, but when you're being quoted the equivalent of 2 dollars for a necklace, it's hard to put much effort into the haggle. And unlike the pot, I did but the necklace. It's made of multi-coloured wooden beads. Very pretty.
For the better quality items, you need to go into the stores. But that is very much buyer beware. My new friends wanted to get an authentic Indian necklace so we wandered into one shop. We were brought into a back room and the man behind the counter pulled out necklace after necklace. We all ended up finding one we loved and then it is time to discuss price. It's considered rude to talk price before selecting. That makes it very hard, as I can invariably choose the most expensive thing. Rather than giving us a price, we were asked how much we were willing to pay. One woman said 5 Australian dollars (very, very low-ball) and I said 4000 rupees (about 125 bucks). After much talk about how we were like his sisters and that the price he's going to quote is the price he'd give family, out came the price--35 000 rupees!!!! This is about 780 dollars. Insanity. The necklaces were pretty, but the silver was tarnished and they weren't THAT amazing. We almost fell on our asses, we were so surpised. Absolutely not, we said and then had to listen to how these were investment pieces that we would love for the rest of our lives, blah, blah, blah. It wasn't until we just said, Look, we just don't have that kind of money, that we were allowed to leave.
Beside the shop, was a Mad about Donuts. It's a chain here and we decided to get over the sticker shock with coffee and a donut. The donut flavours were the same as we have, but some were more exotic. Most interesting were the savory one, like chili, but we weren't that adventurous. What we settled on was cinnamon, blueberry (that one was the best), a nutella filled, a white chocolate mocha, a mocha, and the equivalent of a boston cream. The donuts are eggless, for some reason, so the texture is a little heavier than my Tim Horton's donut. We were kind of "meh" on the donuts but the coffee was delicious. It took several bites of donut to get over our outrage on the necklaces. Even as I'm typing this, I'm still shaking my head. If we would have gotten a decent price, he would have made a sale. Jerk.We proceed on and tried another store (called Amber) and this one was wonderful. Family run, the husband and wife were behind the counter and were chatty and very knowledgeable about what they sold. The steady stream of Indian shoppers who were also buying was a good indicator of the store's reputation. The ladies looked at necklaces, and I got sidetracked with bracelets and earrings. Again, not cheap, but a price that made sense. Like last week, once it was clear that we were there to shop, out came the tea. I do love that. We sipped our tea and browsed and browsed. Service in this country is exceptional. No request is too small and I've found I've had to get over the notion that as a shopper, my needs are a bit of a nuisance. You do not see 16 year olds yakking on their cell phones and ignoring you in the shops here.
We all found something. I bought a gorgeous marcasite bracelet. Marcasite is also known as "black diamonds" and the bracelet is so glittery, I can see why. We did mention the outrageous price from the other store and our new favourite shopkeeper just shook his head and said, "Crook".
We finished the day having high tea at the Taj. It really was serendipity that the three of us met. I had a truly fun afternoon at time where I am beginning to get a tiny twinge of homesickness.
More pictures of the market and the Sea Lounge at the Taj. I think I might enjoy one last tea there next weekend. I really enjoy the neighbourood it's in.
Thursday 18 August 2011
It's Raining
(Oops forgot to publish last night--so yesterday was the rainy day)
Today was my first true rainy day. I've been stuck in a couple of crazy downpours and I can only imagine what it's like earlier in the summer when it's true monsoon season. My absolute favourite road sign to date explains in detail what to do in case a road floods and how to escape your car. Now this sign isn't about getting stuck, but finding your car underwater and advises to carry a flashlight and a tool to be able to break the car window and escape.
The rain was lovely. Not just a quick, heavy downpour but showers that went on and on all day. When we finally left work, the whole city felt refreshed. It smelled good! I've gotten used to the day to day smells and when I stepped outside, the air was so fresh. There is a huge empty log beside my office building, and it's overgrown with all sort of weeds--huge, tropical weeds and it looked so lush. My only regret was that it was too late to get outside and go for a walk. It cools off by 10 and it's the perfect temperature to get outside. Stores are open until 10 or 11 and everyone, including kids, are outside at all hours. I'm hoping for another day like this when I have the time to enjoy it.
Today was my first true rainy day. I've been stuck in a couple of crazy downpours and I can only imagine what it's like earlier in the summer when it's true monsoon season. My absolute favourite road sign to date explains in detail what to do in case a road floods and how to escape your car. Now this sign isn't about getting stuck, but finding your car underwater and advises to carry a flashlight and a tool to be able to break the car window and escape.
The rain was lovely. Not just a quick, heavy downpour but showers that went on and on all day. When we finally left work, the whole city felt refreshed. It smelled good! I've gotten used to the day to day smells and when I stepped outside, the air was so fresh. There is a huge empty log beside my office building, and it's overgrown with all sort of weeds--huge, tropical weeds and it looked so lush. My only regret was that it was too late to get outside and go for a walk. It cools off by 10 and it's the perfect temperature to get outside. Stores are open until 10 or 11 and everyone, including kids, are outside at all hours. I'm hoping for another day like this when I have the time to enjoy it.
Tuesday 16 August 2011
Bombay's Stray Dogs
First, a quick note on my new favourite thing, paneer. It's a firm, fresh cheese that can be cooked in a tandoor or as the protein in a saucy dish. At first I thought it was firm tofu (it has the same texture), until my colleague set me straight and let me know what is was and that tofu is for tourists in restaurants and isn't eaten at all by everyday Indians. I'm totally hooked. I had it for lunch today and now had it for dinner. I'm living dangerously. Not only is my food getting spicier and spicier, but I'm also not caring if there are ice-cubes in my drink. Ice-cubes are generally not the traveller's friend. So far, so good, but I'm sure I'll be paying the piper at some point. :)
Anyway...on to my point. I think it's pretty obivious that, for whatever, completely unexpected reason, I totally love this city. I haven't figured it out and not spending a lot of time on it, it's just there. I think part of why I like it are the stray dogs. Don't get me wrong, it's a serious problem here as they can carry rabies and are really just scavengers. I did a little googling. Their breed is known as Pariah dogs and have been around for as much as 14 000 years. However, they can also be kept as pets and if I lived here, I'd bring an extra sandwich or two to work.
The dogs are quite attractive. Medium sized, short hair, pointy little ears--they are clearly a "breed". I've been told that at night, they can be quite vicious and have been know to attack people on scooters or motorcycles, but during the day, they are just these random dogs wandering around; sleeping under cars or on the side of the road or running around playing with each other. Having to step over a sleeping dog makes the city seem that much more friendly, at least to me. I can't help but smile when I walk by snoozing dogs on my way up the street.
Anyway...on to my point. I think it's pretty obivious that, for whatever, completely unexpected reason, I totally love this city. I haven't figured it out and not spending a lot of time on it, it's just there. I think part of why I like it are the stray dogs. Don't get me wrong, it's a serious problem here as they can carry rabies and are really just scavengers. I did a little googling. Their breed is known as Pariah dogs and have been around for as much as 14 000 years. However, they can also be kept as pets and if I lived here, I'd bring an extra sandwich or two to work.
The dogs are quite attractive. Medium sized, short hair, pointy little ears--they are clearly a "breed". I've been told that at night, they can be quite vicious and have been know to attack people on scooters or motorcycles, but during the day, they are just these random dogs wandering around; sleeping under cars or on the side of the road or running around playing with each other. Having to step over a sleeping dog makes the city seem that much more friendly, at least to me. I can't help but smile when I walk by snoozing dogs on my way up the street.
Monday 15 August 2011
Being the Tourist--Part Two
The continuation of my fabulous yesterday. (Today, I'm paying the consequences. I'm back to my hacking self. At least it's a holiday and I've had a lazy day. Room service for dinner and an early bedtime)
After leaving the museum, my driver took me to a friend of his who sells authentic pashminas, carpets and Indian art. I've seen enough here to know that coming to India for cheap stuff is a bit of a myth. Yes, I can get a cotton shirt for 10 bucks, but when it comes to quality, you pay. It's still cheaper than we pay, but it's not being given away.
The pashmina store was really fabulous. In the picture, the gentleman at the back was the current owner of the store and the grandson of the original owner. The gentleman in the yellow turban was my driver. One thing I really enjoy here is that when there is business to be conducted, like checking in to a hotel or buying a pashmina, you sit down. In my case, with the pashmina, you sit down for a long time and chat and drink tea. The pashminas were gorgeous. The better ones are hand embroidered and are done so well that it's hard to tell the front from the back, the stitching is so tidy. These run around 400 dollars and I was tempted, but couldn't bring myself to do it. I didn't love it that much and had visions of moths destroying it. Instead, I settled on a lovely purple one. It's also that lovely, fine cashmere, but it just has a subtle pattern woven into it. Even that runs about 100 dollars and that's my bargained down price. I ended up picking up a couple of other little gifts there and the price was adjusted accordingly. Paying with cash makes a difference, too. There is a booming, under the table, business here. I like that.
I was coughing quite a bit and when the owner noticed, he offered me a cup of "kahwa". This is a Kashimiri tea that people drink in the winter time and is renowned for getting rid of headaches and helping with colds. It was DELICIOUS. It's a blend of green tea, cinnamon, cardamon and almonds. It works, too. No more coughing for a couple of hours after that. I've posted the recipe below.
While we sipped our tea, I was able to see some of the more valuable pashiminas in the collection. He had one that was 200 years old and was so heavily embroidered that it almost felt like a a carpet. It would have taken years for a person to decorate. The value of it was about $30 000. He had another that was 150 years old and had less embroidery, but was exquisite all the same. That one was worth $15 000. There is also a weaving technique that is used using two small sticks. The older pashminas created this way had such intricate patterns and would literally take months to loom. He then showed me a current version and it was like looking at a shirt from Target vs.haute couture. The weave was much looser, the pattern much larger and only at the ends. No comparison. The antique ones are hung on the wall as art but wealthy Indians.
When we finally got out of the store (I had to look at carpets, too), my next stop was High Tea at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Stunning! It's considered to be one of the top hotels in Asia. High tea is served in the Sea Lounge and I had a table overlooking the Gateway to India and the Arabian Sea. You know, kind of a dull, every day kind of view...NOT. There were probably about a thousand people milling about the arch. It's huge and celebrating it's 100th anniversary this year. The photograph isn't great, I took it through the window from my table. Around the arch, you can hire a carriage to take you around. Maybe next time when I have more time. They're covered in hammered tin and totally over the top.
The tea was all I had hoped for and I'll be going there again before I leave. Crustless sandwiches, scones.and cream and some Indian treats. I loved that the tea was loose and had one of the best pots of Earl Grey in my life. High tea is really an undervalued meal.
The drive home was just long. What took half an hour in the morning took more than 90 minutes on the drive back to the hotel. According to the driver, on a weekday, the drive from the Taj to my hotel would take about three hours. One thing I noticed about him, he was a true tour guide and was a wealth of information about the city, but always got very quiet when we drove through a slum or where things were falling apart. Fixing the infrastructure here would take hundreds of billions of dollars and decades.
Next weekend, I'm hiring my driver again to see some more of the city and have a chance to spend some more time walking around. I had thought about going to Goa next weekend but somehow the thought of a romantic beach town by myself seems really depressing. Because of the monsoons, the beaches are closed, and so I'd miss out on the one thing I'd really like to do there, anyway.
As promised, here is the recipe for kahwa (and check out the rings below my tea cup):
Kahwa (Kashmiri Winter Tea)
After leaving the museum, my driver took me to a friend of his who sells authentic pashminas, carpets and Indian art. I've seen enough here to know that coming to India for cheap stuff is a bit of a myth. Yes, I can get a cotton shirt for 10 bucks, but when it comes to quality, you pay. It's still cheaper than we pay, but it's not being given away.
I was coughing quite a bit and when the owner noticed, he offered me a cup of "kahwa". This is a Kashimiri tea that people drink in the winter time and is renowned for getting rid of headaches and helping with colds. It was DELICIOUS. It's a blend of green tea, cinnamon, cardamon and almonds. It works, too. No more coughing for a couple of hours after that. I've posted the recipe below.
While we sipped our tea, I was able to see some of the more valuable pashiminas in the collection. He had one that was 200 years old and was so heavily embroidered that it almost felt like a a carpet. It would have taken years for a person to decorate. The value of it was about $30 000. He had another that was 150 years old and had less embroidery, but was exquisite all the same. That one was worth $15 000. There is also a weaving technique that is used using two small sticks. The older pashminas created this way had such intricate patterns and would literally take months to loom. He then showed me a current version and it was like looking at a shirt from Target vs.haute couture. The weave was much looser, the pattern much larger and only at the ends. No comparison. The antique ones are hung on the wall as art but wealthy Indians.
When we finally got out of the store (I had to look at carpets, too), my next stop was High Tea at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Stunning! It's considered to be one of the top hotels in Asia. High tea is served in the Sea Lounge and I had a table overlooking the Gateway to India and the Arabian Sea. You know, kind of a dull, every day kind of view...NOT. There were probably about a thousand people milling about the arch. It's huge and celebrating it's 100th anniversary this year. The photograph isn't great, I took it through the window from my table. Around the arch, you can hire a carriage to take you around. Maybe next time when I have more time. They're covered in hammered tin and totally over the top.
The tea was all I had hoped for and I'll be going there again before I leave. Crustless sandwiches, scones.and cream and some Indian treats. I loved that the tea was loose and had one of the best pots of Earl Grey in my life. High tea is really an undervalued meal.
The drive home was just long. What took half an hour in the morning took more than 90 minutes on the drive back to the hotel. According to the driver, on a weekday, the drive from the Taj to my hotel would take about three hours. One thing I noticed about him, he was a true tour guide and was a wealth of information about the city, but always got very quiet when we drove through a slum or where things were falling apart. Fixing the infrastructure here would take hundreds of billions of dollars and decades.
Next weekend, I'm hiring my driver again to see some more of the city and have a chance to spend some more time walking around. I had thought about going to Goa next weekend but somehow the thought of a romantic beach town by myself seems really depressing. Because of the monsoons, the beaches are closed, and so I'd miss out on the one thing I'd really like to do there, anyway.
As promised, here is the recipe for kahwa (and check out the rings below my tea cup):
Kahwa (Kashmiri Winter Tea)
Ingredients:
4 Cups Water
1/2 tsp. green tea, crushed
2 cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick
3-4 shredded almonds
4 strands of saffron
Sugar to taste
Directions:
Pour water in a pot and add green tea and cinnamon. Bring to a boil. As soon as it boils, add the saffron and sugar. Add the cardamom and almonds. Cover and boil for a few minutes. Strain into a cup and enjoy! It is worth the effort.
Sunday 14 August 2011
Being the Tourist--Part One
I had the most fantastic day, today. I hired a driver and got to play tourist for the day. I am constantly amazed at how cheap some things are. For about 25 dollars, I had a driver take me around for 8 hours. He was a lovely older gentleman who has been doing this for the last 30 years. Since we barely scratch the surface of what there is to see, I'll be doing this again next weekend. Although I saw quite a bit, there were a few areas where I'd like some time to wander around more.
Bombay is actually several islands joined together. It's big. My hotel is sort of in the middle on the west side of the city. Technically, it's a suburb, but the only obvious border between the 'burbs and the city proper is that the auto-rickshaws cannot go into the city. There is a neighbourhood called Bandra, just south of here and that's where they end. To go downtown, a person has to be in a proper car.
To get into the city, there is a huge, new toll bridge called the Bandra Wolfi Sea Link. It probably spans about a kilometer and crosses over the sea. It is very impressive and one of the few places were drivers have to follow the rules of the road. Three lanes, no passing and no speeding. It's a guaranteed ticket if a driver speeds. There are speed cameras set up and there are police officers stationed on the bridge pulling people over.
Our first stop was the Bombay home of Gandhi. The home has been created into a museum. The library is spectacular. On the second floor, there are about 20 or so dioramas depicting defining moments in his life. It was odd, but really fascinating at the same time. How any man could live so simply is beyond me. In his room, there was nothing more than a pallet, a spinning wheel and a few utensils.
Our next stop was the former Prince of Wales museum. It's now called the Museum of Mumbai. There has been a concerted effort to stamp out the colonial heritage, but it's everywhere. If I want to go to somewhere, people are more familiar with the "old" street names than the new ones. When driving to the museum, the architecture becomes very British. The museum is near the main train station and various buildings that used to house the government offices. Very imposing, but at the same time, slowly crumbling.
The museum is has a great collection of religious artifacts from India and Nepal. At the same time, it's a place that time forgot. It's like stepping into a museum from 50 years ago. I still thoroughly enjoyed it though and know more about this area than I ever did before. The grounds were so lush and so tropical. As I'm roasting away in a skirt and t-shirt, I can't help but think of the colonials. The poor women in their corsets and petticoats and dresses. It must have been horrible for them.
And so ends part one. It's 12:30AM here and I'm tired (it took almost a week for me to adjust to the time change). I'm also letting myself get creeped out watching the original, Japanese version of The Grudge. I do love a spooky movie.
Bombay is actually several islands joined together. It's big. My hotel is sort of in the middle on the west side of the city. Technically, it's a suburb, but the only obvious border between the 'burbs and the city proper is that the auto-rickshaws cannot go into the city. There is a neighbourhood called Bandra, just south of here and that's where they end. To go downtown, a person has to be in a proper car.
To get into the city, there is a huge, new toll bridge called the Bandra Wolfi Sea Link. It probably spans about a kilometer and crosses over the sea. It is very impressive and one of the few places were drivers have to follow the rules of the road. Three lanes, no passing and no speeding. It's a guaranteed ticket if a driver speeds. There are speed cameras set up and there are police officers stationed on the bridge pulling people over.
Our first stop was the Bombay home of Gandhi. The home has been created into a museum. The library is spectacular. On the second floor, there are about 20 or so dioramas depicting defining moments in his life. It was odd, but really fascinating at the same time. How any man could live so simply is beyond me. In his room, there was nothing more than a pallet, a spinning wheel and a few utensils. Our next stop was the former Prince of Wales museum. It's now called the Museum of Mumbai. There has been a concerted effort to stamp out the colonial heritage, but it's everywhere. If I want to go to somewhere, people are more familiar with the "old" street names than the new ones. When driving to the museum, the architecture becomes very British. The museum is near the main train station and various buildings that used to house the government offices. Very imposing, but at the same time, slowly crumbling.
And so ends part one. It's 12:30AM here and I'm tired (it took almost a week for me to adjust to the time change). I'm also letting myself get creeped out watching the original, Japanese version of The Grudge. I do love a spooky movie.
Saturday 13 August 2011
Raksha Bandhan
Today was the festival of Rasha Bandhan. It's essentially Brother and Sister day. It's a great holiday as sisters get to buy small gifts for their brothers and tie "rakhi" (silk thread bracelets) around their wrists to signify a brother's protection of his sister and her well being in the coming year. The men wear the rakhi until it comes off on it's own.
Sisters on the other hand, get presents, like cash (and now it's easy to see why I like this) from their brothers. The day is spent visiting family and eating sweets. It sounds pretty wonderful to me. This whole month is full of festivals. This is the first one.
When was out shopping today, I saw the rakhi in the stores. They are quite pretty and can be really simple, such a red cord with some simple beading, to more elaborate ones with rhinestones. or even some that were silver.
Sigh--thinking about this holiday has made me homesick for my own irritating, yet lovable brother.
Sisters on the other hand, get presents, like cash (and now it's easy to see why I like this) from their brothers. The day is spent visiting family and eating sweets. It sounds pretty wonderful to me. This whole month is full of festivals. This is the first one.
When was out shopping today, I saw the rakhi in the stores. They are quite pretty and can be really simple, such a red cord with some simple beading, to more elaborate ones with rhinestones. or even some that were silver.
Sigh--thinking about this holiday has made me homesick for my own irritating, yet lovable brother.
Bombay Traffic
I've noticed that the people who live here all interchange the name between Mumbai and Bombay. Bombay became Mumbai in 1997 and I've noticed that anyone that's more or less my age calls it Bombay. Bombay just sounds more romantic.
I've been mastering the art of street crossing. When I visit New York, I'm always secretly smug when I jay walk like the rest of the New Yorkers. Here, it's a whole different story. The only way to cross the street is to dodge the traffic. The original hotel was on one of the busiest intersections in the city. To get across the street and a turning lane takes about five minutes. I just look for the tiniest break in the traffic and go. People honk, but generally stop. What would be a three lane street in Toronto is a free for all here. A red light is merely a suggestion to stop. If the rest of the traffic is moving, you move with it. The drivers here are incredible. I've noticed a lot of cars with a lot of little dings and scratches, but have yet to actually see an accident, even though they are a leading cause of death in the city. People squeeze their vehicles into the tiny spots and are mere inches from each other. Their fingers are constantly on the horn and they have to use it. It's how everyone lets the other drivers know that they are there.
The noise is constant, although now that I've been here a week, I'm noticing it a lot less. It's just another aspect to this city and I'm beginning to really like it here. It's hard because I am SO foreign. Wandering around today, everyone was checking me out. One of these things was definitely not like the other.
Below, for your viewing and listening pleasure is a short video of the corner, taken the same time I took the above picture. The traffic was really light that day (and I'm not joking).
Tomorrow, I'm looking forward to another day of traffic dodging. I want to have high tea at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. It's apparently gorgeous and the room where they serve tea is virtually unchanged. It's been part of the hotel since it's inception. If it's good enough for Oprah, it's good enough for me. I know Oprah has been there as she's on billboards for the hotel all over the place, holding up the complimentary Mont Blanc pen you apparently receive if you stay there.
I've been mastering the art of street crossing. When I visit New York, I'm always secretly smug when I jay walk like the rest of the New Yorkers. Here, it's a whole different story. The only way to cross the street is to dodge the traffic. The original hotel was on one of the busiest intersections in the city. To get across the street and a turning lane takes about five minutes. I just look for the tiniest break in the traffic and go. People honk, but generally stop. What would be a three lane street in Toronto is a free for all here. A red light is merely a suggestion to stop. If the rest of the traffic is moving, you move with it. The drivers here are incredible. I've noticed a lot of cars with a lot of little dings and scratches, but have yet to actually see an accident, even though they are a leading cause of death in the city. People squeeze their vehicles into the tiny spots and are mere inches from each other. Their fingers are constantly on the horn and they have to use it. It's how everyone lets the other drivers know that they are there.The noise is constant, although now that I've been here a week, I'm noticing it a lot less. It's just another aspect to this city and I'm beginning to really like it here. It's hard because I am SO foreign. Wandering around today, everyone was checking me out. One of these things was definitely not like the other.
Below, for your viewing and listening pleasure is a short video of the corner, taken the same time I took the above picture. The traffic was really light that day (and I'm not joking).
Tomorrow, I'm looking forward to another day of traffic dodging. I want to have high tea at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. It's apparently gorgeous and the room where they serve tea is virtually unchanged. It's been part of the hotel since it's inception. If it's good enough for Oprah, it's good enough for me. I know Oprah has been there as she's on billboards for the hotel all over the place, holding up the complimentary Mont Blanc pen you apparently receive if you stay there.
Friday 12 August 2011
The new hotel is as amazing as I'd hoped
I've settled in and it's wonderful. It's big, clean and very quiet. My butler brought my dinner, took away my laundry and folded down my bed. I'm suddenly very, very tired.
Thursday 11 August 2011
Indian Mega-Companies
Ok, this might be kind of dull, but I'm fascinated by what I think of as the "mega-companies" here. (I really should be packing/working but I'm a little obsessed). Reliance is a huge one here. The do telecommunications, TV (a client, no less), biotech, etc, etc. One of the most interesting companies that they own is a stem cell bank here in the city.
However, the one that has really caught my interest is Tata because this company is so part of the every day life here. My co-worker who has been taking me to the office drives a Tata car. The trucks and buses I see are Tata. Want a bottle of water? One of the major brands here is Himalayan and it's a Tata product. I keep getting text messages with the number of the Canadian consulate on my Blackberry from Tata Docomo when I'm in their area. I forgot my firewire for my camera and will have to get a new one at Croma (think Best Buy) and it's a Tata company. I'm going to have lunch on the weekend at the Taj Mahal hotel and it's a Tata property. I went searching for an annual report to see what their profits are, but alas, it's a privately owned company.
Even you are touched by this company. Tetley Tea, Land Rover/Jaguar, The Pierre in New York City, 8 o'clock coffe (does anyone actually drink that?). It's endless--and endlessly fascinating. Looking for the name has become a weird hobby.
However, the one that has really caught my interest is Tata because this company is so part of the every day life here. My co-worker who has been taking me to the office drives a Tata car. The trucks and buses I see are Tata. Want a bottle of water? One of the major brands here is Himalayan and it's a Tata product. I keep getting text messages with the number of the Canadian consulate on my Blackberry from Tata Docomo when I'm in their area. I forgot my firewire for my camera and will have to get a new one at Croma (think Best Buy) and it's a Tata company. I'm going to have lunch on the weekend at the Taj Mahal hotel and it's a Tata property. I went searching for an annual report to see what their profits are, but alas, it's a privately owned company.
Even you are touched by this company. Tetley Tea, Land Rover/Jaguar, The Pierre in New York City, 8 o'clock coffe (does anyone actually drink that?). It's endless--and endlessly fascinating. Looking for the name has become a weird hobby.
Wednesday 10 August 2011
Moving! Hooray!
I'm so pleased. On Friday morning I'm moving to another hotel. This hotel, although it looks fine, has couple of things against it. The neighbourhood is a bit sketchy. It's not exactly a walking around neighbourhood despite it being so close to a couple of large, upscale malls. I've learned though, that this city is just like that. Poverty is just outside the door and people just basically ignore it. My second problem is how this place smells. It's damp smelling and it just really bothers me. I can taste it and am NOT getting used to it, as I expected to.
When I mentioned it to my co-worker today (and told his the story of my unfortunate neighbour who spent last night either vomiting or flushing the toilet) he sprang into action. At lunchtime, we took a look at another hotel close to the office. The hotel was ok, but the road was indescribably rough. It went from pavement to a rutted dirt road that was barely navigable. The potholes were filled with rocks. The area where the client (and this hotel) is a reclaimed dump. But there are still areas that haven't really been properly covered up and one of those areas was near this hotel. It was not a place for me.
The other hotel is the hotel that my co-worker wanted to put me in, in the first place. It's a bit further away from the office, but in a much better neighbourhood, called Andheri West. There are lots of restaurants, coffee shops and an open air market street. And the hotel is fantastic. Very boutique. The rooms are large and lovely and odourless. Just walking into the lobby made me happy. And the coolest thing? My personal 24/7 butler. He's there to unpack my clothes, do my ironing (yeah, like he can do it properly), get me a Wii or PS3 if I feel like playing and generally make sure that I don't have to look after anything at all. Heavenly, but kind of weird at the same time. I don't know if I want a strange man touching my unmentionables.
Work is work. I'm still sick, but looking forward to a long weekend here. Monday is Independence Day. On the weekend, I'm hiring a tourist taxi that will take me around the city for the day. Finally, a real adventure.
Actually, I should correct myself. To get to the hotel today, we took an auto-rickshaw. The drivers are fearless and you just have to hold on. It's like flat roller coaster with horrible air pollution. It was a blast.
Monday 8 August 2011
Dinner
Tandoori chicken. Delicious. Succulent. Spicy. There is a great Indian restaurant in my neighbourhood in Toronto and I love their chicken. Or so I thought. Crap this was good.
Now bed. :)
And the jetlag hits...
I'm sorry to say that I did not get around a bit on Sunday. Instead, I slept for 12(!!) hours. Once I settled into my hotel and watched the end of the horrible Bruce Willis move, I finally settled down to sleep. And I slept. And I slept. When I finally came to, I was horrified to find out that it was 4:30 in the afternoon.
Fortunately, one of my co-workers here and his lovely wife took me out for dinner in the evening. I'd forgotten the very critical, anti-frizz stuff for my hair, and I needed clothes hangers. The four that were in my room didn't even start to be enough. So off we went to the mall. There are two HUGE malls nearby. The InOrbit and the Infinity Mall. They have a few cool twists, but a pretty much the same as any mall. Once I'm more awake, I'll do some exploring. InOrbit has a supermarket (a hypermarket) and that's one of my stops tomorrow.
Am watching the following program while I type this. Between host and guest, they've become misty at least three of four time already. Boo hoo--I'm gorgeous and rich but am not good enough for the woman I love. It's kind of fun and sappy. (And now he's crying in earnest. The women in the audience are melting)
http://www.starworld.in/simiselectsindiasmostdesirable/home.aspx
Favourite random thing so far, is the small handheld shower that's beside the toilet. I noticed it in my hotel room, thought it clever as it takes up much less space than a bidet. However, the handheld is also in the women's washroom at the office. I'm going to scope it out at the mall, too. It's just research, of course.
What's really hitting me though, is the poverty. On the ride home, right outside of the expensive mall, there are children tapping on the car windows begging, or men and women selling balloons. It's very hard to just look ahead and ignore them. Tomorrow, I'm likely taking an autorickshaw and am a little nervous. There was one ahead of us on the drive home and the kids were practically climbing in. Ugh.
A final note--tomorrow I've been cleared to eat Indian food. Hooray! Everyone has been very concerned about my digestive track, but I'm ready.
Two more hours and bed. I cannot wait. I've slept exactly two hours in the last 28 hours. So very tired.
Fortunately, one of my co-workers here and his lovely wife took me out for dinner in the evening. I'd forgotten the very critical, anti-frizz stuff for my hair, and I needed clothes hangers. The four that were in my room didn't even start to be enough. So off we went to the mall. There are two HUGE malls nearby. The InOrbit and the Infinity Mall. They have a few cool twists, but a pretty much the same as any mall. Once I'm more awake, I'll do some exploring. InOrbit has a supermarket (a hypermarket) and that's one of my stops tomorrow.
Am watching the following program while I type this. Between host and guest, they've become misty at least three of four time already. Boo hoo--I'm gorgeous and rich but am not good enough for the woman I love. It's kind of fun and sappy. (And now he's crying in earnest. The women in the audience are melting)
http://www.starworld.in/simiselectsindiasmostdesirable/home.aspx
Favourite random thing so far, is the small handheld shower that's beside the toilet. I noticed it in my hotel room, thought it clever as it takes up much less space than a bidet. However, the handheld is also in the women's washroom at the office. I'm going to scope it out at the mall, too. It's just research, of course.
A final note--tomorrow I've been cleared to eat Indian food. Hooray! Everyone has been very concerned about my digestive track, but I'm ready.
Two more hours and bed. I cannot wait. I've slept exactly two hours in the last 28 hours. So very tired.
Saturday 6 August 2011
Made It!
I've landed and am sitting happily in my hotel room, watching a Bruce Willis (Surrogate) movie on TV, eating my complimentary cookie (something nutty with white chocolate) and having cup of tea. I'm exhausted, but way to hyper to sleep. And yes, it's smelly. It reminds me of a damp smelly basement.
The drive was crazy. We went through slums, I saw a group of men sleeping under a tarp and a dealership selling Mercedes and other high end cars. All in about a block or two. Lots of beeping of horns and people just driving without seeming to pay any attention to the traffic around them.
In a word, awesome! I can't wait to get around a bit tomorrow.
The drive was crazy. We went through slums, I saw a group of men sleeping under a tarp and a dealership selling Mercedes and other high end cars. All in about a block or two. Lots of beeping of horns and people just driving without seeming to pay any attention to the traffic around them.
In a word, awesome! I can't wait to get around a bit tomorrow.
Frankfurt Airport
Viele Grüße aus Deutchland! Stage 1 of the trip is done and I'm hanging out in the airport. Very little sleep for me on the flight, despite the comfy pod seating. I did get through three movies though--Never Let Me Go, which is a great novel about children who are clones and exist solely to be organ donors as adults. Read the book. It's by Kazuo Ishiguro (he's best known for Remains of the Day). I was pleasantly surprised that it had been turned into a film.
Also watched the documentary, Bill Cunningham's New York. If you read the New York Times, he does the "On the Street" section-which is basically a collage of fashions that he found particularly interesting while he was out and about on his bicycle. Very odd guy and a total mystery to his friends. I love a good eccentric.
Rounding out my highbrow viewing was Morning Glory. I thought it was cute, despite the mixed reviews I had read. I think I particularly liked it as it wasn't vaguely depressing, like the two movies that came ahead of it. Sometimes formulaic Hollywood fluff really hits the spot.
As I have a few hours to kill, I had a wander around the airport. I found my gummi-bears but sadly, not the candy that I really wanted. The company that makes the best gummi-bears in the world, Haribo, also makes marshmallow strawberries. These are not quite as sweet and icky as the ones that we have. Haribo's strawberries are the perfect artificial strawberry flavour. Sweet, but not too sweet, the marshmallow is fluffy and a wee bit chewy and the sugar coating is just the right amount of sugariness. Not too much and a lovely hot pink colour, to boot. Yeah, they are pretty good. My favourite of all time. Boo-hoo for me.
I've just figured out what's odd about this place. It's strange that it's so quiet, other than the usual people noise. I have found it kind of strangely warm, and it's because there is no air conditioning running constantly. It kicks in for a very short while and then it's gone. When it is running, it's extremely quiet. I'll out myself as a nerd because my best analogy is a Star Trek one. In one episode or another (I'm not a big enough nerd to pull up those details) the warp drive dives and that constant thrum in the background is missing. This is exactly the same.
And with perfect timing, my pager is flashing. It's my turn for one of the shower stalls. This is going to be one of the best showers of my life.
Also watched the documentary, Bill Cunningham's New York. If you read the New York Times, he does the "On the Street" section-which is basically a collage of fashions that he found particularly interesting while he was out and about on his bicycle. Very odd guy and a total mystery to his friends. I love a good eccentric.
Rounding out my highbrow viewing was Morning Glory. I thought it was cute, despite the mixed reviews I had read. I think I particularly liked it as it wasn't vaguely depressing, like the two movies that came ahead of it. Sometimes formulaic Hollywood fluff really hits the spot.
As I have a few hours to kill, I had a wander around the airport. I found my gummi-bears but sadly, not the candy that I really wanted. The company that makes the best gummi-bears in the world, Haribo, also makes marshmallow strawberries. These are not quite as sweet and icky as the ones that we have. Haribo's strawberries are the perfect artificial strawberry flavour. Sweet, but not too sweet, the marshmallow is fluffy and a wee bit chewy and the sugar coating is just the right amount of sugariness. Not too much and a lovely hot pink colour, to boot. Yeah, they are pretty good. My favourite of all time. Boo-hoo for me.
I've just figured out what's odd about this place. It's strange that it's so quiet, other than the usual people noise. I have found it kind of strangely warm, and it's because there is no air conditioning running constantly. It kicks in for a very short while and then it's gone. When it is running, it's extremely quiet. I'll out myself as a nerd because my best analogy is a Star Trek one. In one episode or another (I'm not a big enough nerd to pull up those details) the warp drive dives and that constant thrum in the background is missing. This is exactly the same.
And with perfect timing, my pager is flashing. It's my turn for one of the shower stalls. This is going to be one of the best showers of my life.
Friday 5 August 2011
On Communication (and medication)
Anyone who has talked to me in the last couple of days knows I have a terrible cold. It's worse today than yesterday and I've been continuing to hack up a storm. I have found my new wonder drug, though. Robitussin Cough Gels. The pharmacist at my local Shopper's recommended them and they are truly amazing. One hour after taking two and I've just stopped coughing. Just a tickle that goes nowhere. What a huge relief. I really wish I could take a nap, though. (Cue me getting up to get coffee and Bailey's. A deja vu moment in the AC lounge)
Now to communication. Like everyone else, I like to complain about Air Canada. Last night, however, they were quite efficient and friendly under fairly trying circumstances and I was very annoyed with the other passengers who were giving a very hard time to the people who were simply trying to help. Today, however, I'm a little less impressed-not with the service, but with how AC has handled the situation with their employees. Because I was told to last night, I came to the airport early because I would have to get my baggage from last night and then check it in again. When I checked in, that was not the case, although the woman at the checkout counter had to double-check herself as she has been told the same thing as me. I had her check again with someone else, just to be sure, and yet still have a feeling that my bags will not be meeting me in Mumbai. At least there is a giant mall close to the hotel.
The other thing that bothers me is that I've spoken to four separate AC employees today and from the nice lady in Winnipeg in customer service to the woman guarding the entrance to the lounge, none have any clue what happened last night. Each one did this stage whisper to me asking what went on. I would have thought Air Canada would have at least given them a little bit of a brief, but all they knew was what they had seen on the news. Yes, it's sort of unprofessional to ask, but I can't blame them for being curious. It just seems wrong that they have to.
Now to nap. My wonder drug is making me extra dopey.
Now to communication. Like everyone else, I like to complain about Air Canada. Last night, however, they were quite efficient and friendly under fairly trying circumstances and I was very annoyed with the other passengers who were giving a very hard time to the people who were simply trying to help. Today, however, I'm a little less impressed-not with the service, but with how AC has handled the situation with their employees. Because I was told to last night, I came to the airport early because I would have to get my baggage from last night and then check it in again. When I checked in, that was not the case, although the woman at the checkout counter had to double-check herself as she has been told the same thing as me. I had her check again with someone else, just to be sure, and yet still have a feeling that my bags will not be meeting me in Mumbai. At least there is a giant mall close to the hotel.
The other thing that bothers me is that I've spoken to four separate AC employees today and from the nice lady in Winnipeg in customer service to the woman guarding the entrance to the lounge, none have any clue what happened last night. Each one did this stage whisper to me asking what went on. I would have thought Air Canada would have at least given them a little bit of a brief, but all they knew was what they had seen on the news. Yes, it's sort of unprofessional to ask, but I can't blame them for being curious. It just seems wrong that they have to.
Now to nap. My wonder drug is making me extra dopey.
Thursday 4 August 2011
Drama on the Runway
It's on the news, but here's a link.
I have to give the pilot props for the best understatement I've heard in a long time.
We were happily taxing down the runway when the pilot slammed on the breaks and the plane made this strange list to the left. He fired up the engines once or twice and then came on and said there seemed to be a "slight malfunction" of the landing gear and that ground crews were on the way to take a look. No big deal. Time passes, a few more announcements basically saying the same thing and then finally that we would have to deplane on the runway and we would be taken back to the terminal. That's when we saw that the left side of the plane was in the grass. And the wheels had sunk in more than halfway. There were firetrucks and emergency trucks everywhere. There may have been a small fire, the air smelled like burning rubber and this was a good hour and half since we first came to a stop. Super cool, actually.
An interesting gossip I overheard from some other passengers was that this was apparently the pilot's last flight before retiring. I'm going to be curious to hear what the cause of this was. Although the news seems to be indicating pilot error, the feeling of the passengers was that he did it on purpose to slow down the plane. That sounds like people trying to reassure themselves--it's not based on any facts.
And now on to why are people such jerks? When we finally arrive back at the airport, the poor Air Canada employees are trying to do their job and get people either home or in a hotel. And yet, people have to complain, sniff at each announcement (this particularly bugs me) and just basically be assholes about the situation. Complaining, trying to butt in, or (economy flyers take note) trying to get into the line for people flying executive class just slows things down for everyone. I did get a Lindt chocolate bar out of the deal and another night in my own bed. I'm not complaining at all.
The Nyquil is kicking in, thankfully. I must really sound awful. A lovely, older German woman made me take her pack of Halls. The entire pack. Germany has good tasting Halls. Minty and lemony. I'll be looking for them tomrrow at the airport. AC has sent me my revised itinerary and I know have a 6 hour layover in Frankfurt. I'll be having schnitzel and strudel for lunch. And real, Haribo gummi bears--Hedwig style ("But Mother, he gave me gummibaren") Well, maybe I'll get my gummi bears without having to have sex with a large, black, American soldier. We'll see...
Definitely an adventurous start!
Here are my own picks off of my BB.
At the Airport Lounge
Apparently, not traveling economy has already made me more ambitious so I thought I'd start a blog about this trip to India. Four weeks plus a day. It's going to either a fabulous experience or a dismal failure. I'm hoping for the former.
I'm sitting in the Maple Leaf lounge having dinner. Cream of mushroom soup and a really delicious, although super garlicky, chick pea salad. Warm cookies and Baileys coming up shortly. I could get used to this very quickly. Everything about traveling in executive class is just better. Shorter line-ups, obviously, but everyone is just that much nicer, from the woman who checked me in to the the security people. It really is a better way to travel.
Cookies are only so-so. Bailey's delicious.
For those who don't know, I'm heading to Mumbai for four weeks for work. The weather forecast is in the neighbourhood of 30C and thunderstorms. My umbrella obsession will serve me well. I'll bet in a city of 20-odd million people, there has to be a least one umbrella store. I will find out.
First stop on Saturday, once I'm awake is a grocery store. Love them and I'm sure an Indian supermarket will be a tad more more exotic than Wegmans.
I'm sitting in the Maple Leaf lounge having dinner. Cream of mushroom soup and a really delicious, although super garlicky, chick pea salad. Warm cookies and Baileys coming up shortly. I could get used to this very quickly. Everything about traveling in executive class is just better. Shorter line-ups, obviously, but everyone is just that much nicer, from the woman who checked me in to the the security people. It really is a better way to travel.
Cookies are only so-so. Bailey's delicious.
For those who don't know, I'm heading to Mumbai for four weeks for work. The weather forecast is in the neighbourhood of 30C and thunderstorms. My umbrella obsession will serve me well. I'll bet in a city of 20-odd million people, there has to be a least one umbrella store. I will find out.
First stop on Saturday, once I'm awake is a grocery store. Love them and I'm sure an Indian supermarket will be a tad more more exotic than Wegmans.
Almost time to board. Next stop Frankfurt, then on to Mumbai.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)